The handover checklist our engineers actually use

Door viewer, calling bell and intercom

Test the eye viewer sightline, calling bell and the intercom/video door phone handset.

Foyer flooring, skirting and niche finish

Check foyer tile joints, skirting line and any shoe-niche or storage provision.

Living room wall and paint finish

Check cracks, uneven putty, stains and paint touch-up marks.

Living room wall plumb and squareness

Wall plumb tolerance 1 in 250 over storey height — about 12 mm over 3 m (IS 1077). Check corners for square.

Wall plaster flatness

Plaster deviation should stay within ±3 mm under a 3 m straightedge (IS 1542 / IS 1661).

Living/dining flooring level and joints

Check for tile lipping, hollow sound and open grout joints.

Skirting alignment and floor junction

Skirting should run level with no gap at the floor line and mitred corners.

False ceiling and edge finishing

Look for sagging, patch marks, or visible gaps at perimeter.

Ceiling soffit cracks and patch marks

Inspect the slab soffit for hairline cracks, visible patching and any sagging.

Living area switchboards and socket points

Verify switches, sockets and plate alignment are functional and secure.

TV, internet and AC point provision

Check AC point, sleeve through the wall, drain slope to outside and outdoor unit space.

Light points, cove lighting and fan hook

Every light point live, cove lighting continuous and the fan hook load-tested.

Curtain rod blocking above windows

Confirm solid blocking or provision above the window for curtain rod fixing.

Dining wash basin, tap and drain

Where provided: basin fixing, tap operation, waste connection and no drip at the trap.

Main door — frame: material, plumb and finish

Jamb plumb within ±2 mm over its height (IS 4021); frame material should match specification.

Main door — frame free of cracks, open joints and damage

Check the frame face for cracks and the head-to-jamb joints for gaps or steps. No chipping, dents or polish misses on any exposed face of the frame, beading or architrave.

Main door — no gap between frame, beading and wall

Run a finger along where the frame, beading and architrave meet the wall — an open line here means the frame was fixed before the plaster was made good, and it will only widen.

Main door — no gap between frame and finished floor

The frame legs must land on the finished floor. A gap at the base means a short frame — it rots or rusts from the bottom and can never be sealed properly.

Main door — shutter perimeter gap

Perimeter gap 1–3 mm and sill gap 6–10 mm (IS 4021). Anything wider whistles and lets dust in.

Main door — shutter free from chips, scratches and cracks

Both faces and all four edges under raking light — including the top edge, which is almost never checked and is where damage and unsealed surfaces hide.

Main door — hinge screws complete and rust-free

Every screw hole filled with the correct screw driven fully home — a hinge running on two of three screws will drop the door within a year. Check for rust bloom on hinges and screw heads.

Main door — lock, handle, tower bolt and strike plate

Strike plate screwed flush with the latch engaging fully; key turning without lifting the shutter; tower bolts sliding into their receivers; a stopper on every shutter that catches the door before the handle hits the wall.

Main door — operates easily and noiselessly

Swing the door through its full arc — no rubbing on the floor or frame, no creak, no self-closing drift, and the shutter stays where you leave it.

Main door — shutter warping, swelling or delamination

Sight along the shutter for bow; check the bottom edge for swelling and that the edges are sealed.

Living/dining window — frame external sealant continuity

Unbroken sealant bead where the frame meets the external wall. A gap here is the single commonest path for monsoon water into a bedroom wall.

Living/dining window — frame corner joints free of gaps

Mitred corners of the outer frame should be closed and level — an open corner joint leaks and cannot be sealed from inside.

Living/dining window — rollers, track and locking

Shutters should slide with one finger and stop square. Check the track for debris, damaged rollers and drain (weep) holes left blocked or unformed.

Living/dining window — stopper and hook lock on every shutter

Every sliding shutter needs its stopper and hook lock fitted — without them the shutter can be lifted out of the track from outside.

Living/dining window — glass, beading and glazing gasket

Glass free of breakage, scratches and cement or paint splash; beading fixed square; rubber glazing gasket seated all round rather than stretched and short at a corner.

Living/dining window — mosquito mesh shutters fitted and undamaged

Mesh shutter present for every openable pane, running in its own track, with no tears or gaps at the corners. Most often found simply not provided.

Living/dining window — external sill slope and drip

Sill must fall away from the building with a drip groove underneath, or rain tracks back along the underside and into the wall.

Living/dining window — rain water ingress test

Run water over the closed window and check the inside face, the sill and the wall below for ingress.

Kitchen counter level and slope

Counter should be level with no fall towards the wall; check for standing water near the sink.

Counter slab joints, edge polish and overhang

Check granite/quartz joint alignment, nosing polish and that the overhang matches specification.

Cabinet shutter alignment and hinges

Check shutter gaps, smooth movement and edge laminate finish.

Cabinet internals, drawers and channels

Open every drawer — soft-close channels, shelf support and no exposed raw edges inside.

Sink trap and under-sink leakage

Open tap and inspect joints for drips, sweating, or loose fittings.

Sink bowl fixing and drain board slope

Sink clamped tight with continuous silicone seal; drain board must fall towards the bowl.

Hot and cold inlet points with angle valves

Both inlets live, angle valves turn fully and shut off without weeping.

Dado tiling and sealant quality

Check tile joints, cut edges and silicone seal continuity.

Gas pipeline / PNG-LPG point safety

Check pipeline routing clearance from electrical wiring, leak-test the joint, and confirm shutoff valve access.

Chimney duct, exhaust outlet and hob cutout

Duct route to an external outlet, no blind termination into a shaft; hob cutout size per specification.

Kitchen power points and RCD protection

Appliance sockets at the right height, adequate count and protected by an RCD/RCCB.

Water purifier point and drain

Inlet tap, drain provision and a socket within reach of the purifier location.

Kitchen floor level and drain

Floor should drain without ponding; check the floor trap grating where provided.

Kitchen floor tile condition and hollowness

Tap every tile, especially along the run in front of the counter and around the drain. Record hollow tiles by row and column. Check for cracked, chipped and uneven (lipped) tiles at the same time.

Loft slab, shutters and access

Loft slab finish, shutter alignment and safe access height.

Fittings brand/model matches builder specification

Verify sink, hob/chimney provision, and hardware match the builder's specification sheet.

Kitchen window — frame external sealant continuity

Unbroken sealant bead where the frame meets the external wall. A gap here is the single commonest path for monsoon water into a bedroom wall.

Kitchen window — frame corner joints free of gaps

Mitred corners of the outer frame should be closed and level — an open corner joint leaks and cannot be sealed from inside.

Kitchen window — rollers, track and locking

Shutters should slide with one finger and stop square. Check the track for debris, damaged rollers and drain (weep) holes left blocked or unformed.

Kitchen window — glass, beading and glazing gasket

Glass free of breakage, scratches and cement or paint splash; beading fixed square; rubber glazing gasket seated all round rather than stretched and short at a corner.

Kitchen window — mosquito mesh shutters fitted and undamaged

Mesh shutter present for every openable pane, running in its own track, with no tears or gaps at the corners. Most often found simply not provided.

Kitchen window — external sill slope and drip

Sill must fall away from the building with a drip groove underneath, or rain tracks back along the underside and into the wall.

Utility area plumbing/electrical points

Check washing machine points, drain outlet, and exposed conduit finish.

Washing machine inlet, drain and power

Inlet tap, dedicated drain outlet at the right height and an earthed socket clear of splash.

Utility floor slope to drain

Wet-area fall should be between 1:80 and 1:50 (12.5–20 mm per metre) per NBC Part 9 — pour water and watch it clear.

Utility sink, tap and waste connection

Where provided: sink fixing, tap flow and a trapped waste connection.

Water inlet line, meter and shutoff

Inlet line, individual water meter and an accessible shutoff valve.

LPG cylinder space and ventilation

Ventilated cylinder space at low level with the pipeline entry sealed.

Cloth drying provision

Drying line, rack or ceiling hanger provision as promised in the specification.

Utility waterproofing and adjoining wall

Check the shared wall with the adjoining room for damp patches or salt bloom.

Utility door — no gap between frame, beading and wall

Run a finger along where the frame, beading and architrave meet the wall — an open line here means the frame was fixed before the plaster was made good, and it will only widen.

Utility door — shutter free from chips, scratches and cracks

Both faces and all four edges under raking light — including the top edge, which is almost never checked and is where damage and unsealed surfaces hide.

Utility door — lock, handle, tower bolt and strike plate

Strike plate screwed flush with the latch engaging fully; key turning without lifting the shutter; tower bolts sliding into their receivers; a stopper on every shutter that catches the door before the handle hits the wall.

Utility window — frame external sealant continuity

Unbroken sealant bead where the frame meets the external wall. A gap here is the single commonest path for monsoon water into a bedroom wall.

Utility window — rollers, track and locking

Shutters should slide with one finger and stop square. Check the track for debris, damaged rollers and drain (weep) holes left blocked or unformed.

Utility window — mosquito mesh shutters fitted and undamaged

Mesh shutter present for every openable pane, running in its own track, with no tears or gaps at the corners. Most often found simply not provided.

Wall surface and paint finish

Check for undulations, roller marks, cracks and corner finishing.

Flooring finish and skirting line

Check tile/wooden flooring joints, level and skirting alignment.

Skirting gaps and corner mitres

No visible gap between skirting and floor; corners cleanly mitred.

Ceiling and cornice finish

Ceiling flatness, cornice line and any false ceiling edge gaps.

Wardrobe shutters and internal fitment

Check shutter gaps, hinge action, and internal shelf/rod fitment.

Wardrobe shelves, drawers and hanging rod

Shelf support, drawer channels, hanging rod load and mirror fixing where provided.

Window grill / safety mesh

Grill fixing, rust protection and gaps small enough to be child-safe.

Switchboards, sockets and AC point

Verify all points are live, plates aligned, and AC point is correctly located.

AC sleeve, drain slope and outdoor unit space

Sleeve should fall towards outside; confirm the outdoor unit ledge and drain route.

TV, telephone and data points

Check the count and location against specification; confirm cabling is pulled through.

Attached bathroom door and water barrier

Threshold height and door bottom clearance should stop water tracking into the bedroom.

Balcony door, threshold and water stop

Door operation, lock and a raised threshold or drain to stop rain ingress.

Bedroom door — frame: material, plumb and finish

Jamb plumb within ±2 mm over its height (IS 4021); frame material should match specification.

Bedroom door — frame free of cracks, open joints and damage

Check the frame face for cracks and the head-to-jamb joints for gaps or steps. No chipping, dents or polish misses on any exposed face of the frame, beading or architrave.

Bedroom door — no gap between frame, beading and wall

Run a finger along where the frame, beading and architrave meet the wall — an open line here means the frame was fixed before the plaster was made good, and it will only widen.

Bedroom door — no gap between frame and finished floor

The frame legs must land on the finished floor. A gap at the base means a short frame — it rots or rusts from the bottom and can never be sealed properly.

Bedroom door — shutter perimeter gap

Perimeter gap 1–3 mm and sill gap 6–10 mm (IS 4021). Anything wider whistles and lets dust in.

Bedroom door — shutter free from chips, scratches and cracks

Both faces and all four edges under raking light — including the top edge, which is almost never checked and is where damage and unsealed surfaces hide.

Bedroom door — hinge screws complete and rust-free

Every screw hole filled with the correct screw driven fully home — a hinge running on two of three screws will drop the door within a year. Check for rust bloom on hinges and screw heads.

Bedroom door — lock, handle, tower bolt and strike plate

Strike plate screwed flush with the latch engaging fully; key turning without lifting the shutter; tower bolts sliding into their receivers; a stopper on every shutter that catches the door before the handle hits the wall.

Bedroom door — operates easily and noiselessly

Swing the door through its full arc — no rubbing on the floor or frame, no creak, no self-closing drift, and the shutter stays where you leave it.

Bedroom door — shutter warping, swelling or delamination

Sight along the shutter for bow; check the bottom edge for swelling and that the edges are sealed.

Bedroom window — frame external sealant continuity

Unbroken sealant bead where the frame meets the external wall. A gap here is the single commonest path for monsoon water into a bedroom wall.

Bedroom window — frame corner joints free of gaps

Mitred corners of the outer frame should be closed and level — an open corner joint leaks and cannot be sealed from inside.

Bedroom window — rollers, track and locking

Shutters should slide with one finger and stop square. Check the track for debris, damaged rollers and drain (weep) holes left blocked or unformed.

Bedroom window — stopper and hook lock on every shutter

Every sliding shutter needs its stopper and hook lock fitted — without them the shutter can be lifted out of the track from outside.

Bedroom window — glass, beading and glazing gasket

Glass free of breakage, scratches and cement or paint splash; beading fixed square; rubber glazing gasket seated all round rather than stretched and short at a corner.

Bedroom window — mosquito mesh shutters fitted and undamaged

Mesh shutter present for every openable pane, running in its own track, with no tears or gaps at the corners. Most often found simply not provided.

Bedroom window — external sill slope and drip

Sill must fall away from the building with a drip groove underneath, or rain tracks back along the underside and into the wall.

Bedroom window — rain water ingress test

Run water over the closed window and check the inside face, the sill and the wall below for ingress.

Wall and ceiling paint finish

Check patchy paint, cracks near corners, and ceiling junction lines.

Floor level, joints and skirting

Look for lipping between tiles, hollow sound and skirting gaps.

Ceiling finish and false ceiling edges

Ceiling flatness, patch marks and false ceiling perimeter gaps where provided.

Window grill / safety mesh

Grill fixing and baluster gap suitable for child safety.

Wardrobe provision and fitment

Where provided: shutter alignment, internals and fixing to the wall.

Power points and light fixtures

Test each socket, switch and light point in the room.

AC point, sleeve and drain

AC point live, sleeve falling outward and a clear condensate drain route.

TV and data points

Confirm the promised TV/data points exist and are cabled.

Bedroom door — frame: material, plumb and finish

Jamb plumb within ±2 mm over its height (IS 4021); frame material should match specification.

Bedroom door — frame free of cracks, open joints and damage

Check the frame face for cracks and the head-to-jamb joints for gaps or steps. No chipping, dents or polish misses on any exposed face of the frame, beading or architrave.

Bedroom door — no gap between frame, beading and wall

Run a finger along where the frame, beading and architrave meet the wall — an open line here means the frame was fixed before the plaster was made good, and it will only widen.

Bedroom door — no gap between frame and finished floor

The frame legs must land on the finished floor. A gap at the base means a short frame — it rots or rusts from the bottom and can never be sealed properly.

Bedroom door — shutter perimeter gap

Perimeter gap 1–3 mm and sill gap 6–10 mm (IS 4021). Anything wider whistles and lets dust in.

Bedroom door — shutter free from chips, scratches and cracks

Both faces and all four edges under raking light — including the top edge, which is almost never checked and is where damage and unsealed surfaces hide.

Bedroom door — hinge screws complete and rust-free

Every screw hole filled with the correct screw driven fully home — a hinge running on two of three screws will drop the door within a year. Check for rust bloom on hinges and screw heads.

Bedroom door — lock, handle, tower bolt and strike plate

Strike plate screwed flush with the latch engaging fully; key turning without lifting the shutter; tower bolts sliding into their receivers; a stopper on every shutter that catches the door before the handle hits the wall.

Bedroom door — operates easily and noiselessly

Swing the door through its full arc — no rubbing on the floor or frame, no creak, no self-closing drift, and the shutter stays where you leave it.

Bedroom door — shutter warping, swelling or delamination

Sight along the shutter for bow; check the bottom edge for swelling and that the edges are sealed.

Bedroom window — frame external sealant continuity

Unbroken sealant bead where the frame meets the external wall. A gap here is the single commonest path for monsoon water into a bedroom wall.

Bedroom window — frame corner joints free of gaps

Mitred corners of the outer frame should be closed and level — an open corner joint leaks and cannot be sealed from inside.

Bedroom window — rollers, track and locking

Shutters should slide with one finger and stop square. Check the track for debris, damaged rollers and drain (weep) holes left blocked or unformed.

Bedroom window — stopper and hook lock on every shutter

Every sliding shutter needs its stopper and hook lock fitted — without them the shutter can be lifted out of the track from outside.

Bedroom window — glass, beading and glazing gasket

Glass free of breakage, scratches and cement or paint splash; beading fixed square; rubber glazing gasket seated all round rather than stretched and short at a corner.

Bedroom window — mosquito mesh shutters fitted and undamaged

Mesh shutter present for every openable pane, running in its own track, with no tears or gaps at the corners. Most often found simply not provided.

Bedroom window — external sill slope and drip

Sill must fall away from the building with a drip groove underneath, or rain tracks back along the underside and into the wall.

Bedroom window — rain water ingress test

Run water over the closed window and check the inside face, the sill and the wall below for ingress.

Floor slope towards drain

Wet-area fall should be 1:80 to 1:50 (12.5–20 mm per metre) per NBC Part 9. Pour a mug of water — it must clear with no ponding.

Floor trap, grating and drainage speed

Grating seated flush; a gully trap should clear standing water in under 10 seconds (NBC Part 9).

Wall tile alignment and grouting

Check tile level, corner cuts, grout gaps and any hollow tiles.

Tile joint width, grout and cut placement

Lippage should stay within 1.5 mm for ceramic/vitrified (IS 14687); cut tiles belong in the least visible corner.

Taps, mixers and shower leakage

Run each outlet and check for drips at spindle, wall joint and diverter.

CP fittings brand/model match specification

Compare taps, shower and accessories against the specification annexure.

Health faucet, angle valve and fixing

Faucet flow, no drip at the angle valve and a firm wall hook.

WC fixing, seat and flush operation

Check for rocking, silicone seal at base, dual flush function and cistern refill.

Wash basin, counter, waste and trap

Basin fixing, counter support, pop-up waste and bottle trap free of leaks.

Sanitaryware free from chips, cracks and stains

Inspect the WC pan, cistern, seat and basin under raking light — including the rim underside and the hidden face against the wall, where transit chips are usually left.

Under-counter basin support and fixing

An under-counter or counter-top basin must sit on brackets or a bonded support, not on silicone alone. Press down on the rim — any movement means it will crack the counter joint later.

Bottle trap, angle cock and connection hoses

A proper bottle trap (not a bare flexible pipe pushed into the floor), an angle cock on each inlet and braided hoses without kinks or over-tightened collars.

Shower zone slope, ledge and partition

Shower area should drain independently; check glass partition fixing and toughened glass marking.

Exhaust fan and geyser point

Test exhaust airflow and confirm geyser point has correct rating and location.

Geyser dedicated MCB and clearance

Geyser must be on its own MCB with safe clearance from the shower zone.

Exhaust duct termination and shaft

Duct must discharge to open air or a ventilated shaft, not into a false ceiling void.

False ceiling: channel fixing, level and access

Grid channels fixed at the right centres and properly anchored — a bathroom false ceiling carries the exhaust duct and sags first at the joints. Check the perimeter line, panel level, and that an access panel exists for the duct and concealed valves above it.

Water pressure and flow at all outlets

Open several outlets together and check flow does not collapse — tests supply sizing. Measure the pressure at the outlet and record the figure: it should read between 1.5 and 5 kg/cm². Below 1.5 the geyser and shower will not perform properly; above 5 the pressure itself shortens the life of cartridges, seals and flexible hoses.

Mirror, shelf and accessory fixing

Mirror, towel rod, soap dish and hooks fixed square and firm.

Concealed plumbing access panel

Confirm an access panel or shaft door exists for concealed valves and future repairs.

Signs of waterproofing failure

Look for damp patches on adjacent room walls, salt deposits or discoloured grout.

Bathroom door — no gap between frame, beading and wall

An open line where the frame meets the wall is a water path in a wet room, not just a finish defect.

Bathroom door — shutter material suited to a wet area

Bottom edge sealed and the shutter material rated for a bathroom. An unsealed flush door swells from the bottom within one monsoon.

Bathroom door — shutter free from chips, swelling and delamination

Check the bottom 150 mm of both faces and the bottom edge especially — that is where bathroom doors fail first.

Bathroom door — threshold water stop and bottom clearance

A raised threshold or water stop that actually holds water in, with enough clearance under the shutter for the exhaust fan to draw air.

Bathroom door — privacy lock releases from outside

The lock must hold from inside and be releasable from outside in an emergency — a bathroom door that cannot be opened from outside is a safety defect.

Balcony floor slope and drain outlet

Water must run to the drain without pooling near the door threshold.

Balcony floor tile and anti-skid finish

Anti-skid tile laid to fall towards the drain, with no cracked, chipped or lipped tiles. Tap the tiles too — hollowness near the drain outlet and against the railing wall is common and is where water gets under the screed.

Railing fixing and height

Check base plate fixing, wobble, and that height meets safety norms.

Railing height and baluster gap

Railing height and a baluster gap narrow enough that a child cannot pass through (NBC Part 4 guidance).

Glass railing marking and fixing

Where provided: toughened glass etch mark, spigot fixing and no chipped edges.

Balcony soffit, drip mould and paint

Drip mould on the underside stops water tracking back onto the wall face.

Parapet wall finish and coping

Parapet plaster, coping slope and any cracking at the junction with the slab.

Balcony light point and weatherproofing

Light/socket points must be weatherproof and positioned clear of rain splash.

Seepage into the adjoining room

Check the internal face of the balcony wall for damp, staining or peeling paint.

Balcony sliding door — frame: material, plumb and finish

Jamb plumb within ±2 mm over its height (IS 4021); frame material should match specification.

Balcony sliding door — frame free of cracks, open joints and damage

Check the frame face for cracks and the head-to-jamb joints for gaps or steps. No chipping, dents or polish misses on any exposed face of the frame, beading or architrave.

Balcony sliding door — no gap between frame, beading and wall

Run a finger along where the frame, beading and architrave meet the wall — an open line here means the frame was fixed before the plaster was made good, and it will only widen.

Balcony sliding door — no gap between frame and finished floor

The frame legs must land on the finished floor. A gap at the base means a short frame — it rots or rusts from the bottom and can never be sealed properly.

Balcony sliding door — shutter perimeter gap

Perimeter gap 1–3 mm and sill gap 6–10 mm (IS 4021). Anything wider whistles and lets dust in.

Balcony sliding door — shutter free from chips, scratches and cracks

Both faces and all four edges under raking light — including the top edge, which is almost never checked and is where damage and unsealed surfaces hide.

Balcony sliding door — hinge screws complete and rust-free

Every screw hole filled with the correct screw driven fully home — a hinge running on two of three screws will drop the door within a year. Check for rust bloom on hinges and screw heads.

Balcony sliding door — lock, handle, tower bolt and strike plate

Strike plate screwed flush with the latch engaging fully; key turning without lifting the shutter; tower bolts sliding into their receivers; a stopper on every shutter that catches the door before the handle hits the wall.

Balcony sliding door — operates easily and noiselessly

Swing the door through its full arc — no rubbing on the floor or frame, no creak, no self-closing drift, and the shutter stays where you leave it.

Balcony sliding door — shutter warping, swelling or delamination

Sight along the shutter for bow; check the bottom edge for swelling and that the edges are sealed.

Balcony glazing — frame external sealant continuity

Unbroken sealant bead where the frame meets the external wall. A gap here is the single commonest path for monsoon water into a bedroom wall.

Balcony glazing — rollers, track and locking

Shutters should slide with one finger and stop square. Check the track for debris, damaged rollers and drain (weep) holes left blocked or unformed.

Balcony glazing — stopper and hook lock on every shutter

Every sliding shutter needs its stopper and hook lock fitted — without them the shutter can be lifted out of the track from outside.

Balcony glazing — glass, beading and glazing gasket

Glass free of breakage, scratches and cement or paint splash; beading fixed square; rubber glazing gasket seated all round rather than stretched and short at a corner.

Balcony glazing — mosquito mesh shutters fitted and undamaged

Mesh shutter present for every openable pane, running in its own track, with no tears or gaps at the corners. Most often found simply not provided.

Dado free from hollowness

Tap every dado tile in the kitchen, bathrooms and utility with a coin or tap rod. A drummy sound means the tile never bonded — it will crack or fall once a shelf or fixture is drilled into it. Over 15% hollow area calls for re-laying (IS 14687).

Dado free from undulation

Hold a straightedge across the dado horizontally and vertically. Beyond about 3 mm deviation over 2 m the course is out of plane, and it shows badly under wall lighting.

Dado joints filled and uniform

Joints of even width, fully filled to the tile face, with no gaps at internal corners, cut tiles or around cutouts for taps and switches.

No visible cracks on dado tiles

Look for hairline and through cracks, especially over concealed plumbing chases and at fixture cutouts where the tile was drilled.

Floor-to-dado junction grouted

The joint where the dado meets the floor tile must be fully grouted or siliconed. An open joint at this line feeds water straight into the sunk slab and shows up later as a ceiling stain below.

Dado laid without shade variation

View the full elevation from an angle with the lights on. Tiles from different batches show as shade bands — a defect the builder must fix from the same batch, not touch up.

No chipping, scratches or damage on dado

Check chipped edges at cut tiles and cutouts, scratched glaze from site tools, and damaged corner beading or edge trims.

Flooring laid without shade variation

Sight down the floor towards the light. Check shade banding between batches and that any directional pattern (the arrow on the tile back) was laid consistently.

No chipping, cracks or scratches on flooring

Corner chips, scratch marks from site traffic and hairline cracks — most common at door thresholds and where heavy material was dragged.

Floor tile joints filled with matching grout

Joint width uniform, filled flush, and the grout shade matching the approved sample across the whole floor — patch grouting in a second shade is a rejectable finish.

No cracks, chip-off or damage on skirting

Run along the skirting line looking for chipped top edges, cracked pieces and damage at door jambs and corners.

Skirting joints and floor junction filled

Skirting-to-skirting joints filled, corners mitred cleanly, and the skirting-to-floor line grouted in a matching shade with no open gap collecting dirt.

Distribution board labelling and MCBs

Each MCB should be labelled and correspond to the right circuit.

Circuit diagram provided at the flat DB

A printed circuit chart inside or beside the distribution board showing which MCB feeds which circuit. Without it, every future fault means switching breakers off one at a time to find the right one.

Voltage test at the distribution board

Measure the incoming line-to-neutral voltage at the DB and write the reading down. It must sit between 200 V and 260 V. Outside that band the supply itself is at fault rather than the wiring — motors, compressors and electronics fail early on it — and the recorded reading is what makes the case to BESCOM or the builder.

MCB ratings and circuit separation

Ratings must suit the cable and load; AC, geyser and kitchen deserve dedicated circuits.

Earthing and RCD/RCCB function

Confirm earth continuity at sockets and RCD trips on test.

Earth resistance measurement

Should read under 5 ohms for a single occupancy (IS 3043). Record the measured value.

RCCB/ELCB trip test

Press the test button and confirm it trips; a stuck RCCB is a shock risk, not a snag.

Line-neutral polarity at sockets

Use a socket tester on every point — line-neutral reversal is common and dangerous.

Socket and switch count per room

Count points room by room against the specification; shortfalls are hard to fix after possession.

Every switch, regulator and dimmer

Operate each one — listen for sparking and feel for loose plates.

Switch and cover plates fixed properly

Every plate flush to the wall with both screws present and tight. A plate that rocks or stands proud usually means a back box set too deep or at an angle.

Switch plates aligned horizontally

Spirit level across each plate, then check that plates on the same wall sit at the same height. Skewed plates are the most visible finishing defect in a handover and the hardest to argue away.

Fan regulator fitted on the switch plate

Regulator module present in the plate rather than a blank, speeds changing across the full range, and no humming from the fan at the lowest setting.

Gaps and mould around the DB and switch boxes

The plaster gap around the DB and each back box must be filled and painted. Open gaps behind plates leave the wall cavity exposed — check for damp or mould in that gap in bathrooms and external walls.

Dummy/blank plates on unused boxes

Every unused back box and spare module closed with a blank plate. An open box with live conductors behind it is a safety defect, not a cosmetic one.

Concealed wiring, conduit and junction boxes

Junction boxes accessible and covered; no exposed joints above the false ceiling.

Light fixtures, fans and fixing

All promised fixtures installed, aligned and firmly fixed.

Surge protection device at the DB

Check whether an SPD is fitted — worth flagging for Bengaluru's monsoon switching surges.

Inverter/UPS and DG backup circuit

Backup circuit provision, changeover and which points are on the DG line.

BESCOM meter and sanctioned load

Meter installed in the buyer's name, sanctioned load adequate, and note the reading at handover.

TV, telephone and internet cabling

Confirm cabling is pulled to each point and terminated, not just an empty box.

Fire safety and emergency egress

Confirm extinguisher access, sprinkler/smoke detector presence and clear escape route.

Plumbing pressure test evidence

Lines should hold 1.5× operating pressure for 24 hours with no measurable drop (NBC Part 9). Ask for the test record.

Water source: Cauvery/BWSSB and borewell

Confirm the BWSSB connection status and whether borewell is the primary or backup source.

Water quality: TDS, hardness and odour

Bengaluru borewell water is often hard — record TDS and note any smell or colour.

Overhead tank, level indicator and access

Tank cleanliness, lid seal, level indicator and a safe access ladder.

Underground sump capacity and cover

Sump capacity against flat count, cleanliness and a secure, sealed cover.

Individual water meter

Meter installed for the flat and the reading recorded at handover.

Booster/hydro-pneumatic pump operation

Pump cuts in and out correctly; check noise and vibration transmission into the unit.

Main and zone shutoff valves

Every wet area should have an accessible isolating valve that actually closes.

Hot water line insulation and routing

Insulated hot lines with correct left/right orientation at each mixer.

Drainage flow and standing water

No standing water in horizontal runs (NBC Part 9); check for gurgling that signals poor venting.

Sewage connection to STP or BWSSB main

Confirm where soil waste discharges and that it is a sanctioned connection.

Rainwater harvesting system

BWSSB mandates RWH for sites 30×40 ft and larger — an OC should not have been issued without it. Check the recharge pit or storage is real and connected.

Solar water heater provision

Required under BBMP bye-law 29 for occupancy — confirm the system exists, is plumbed in and not just a roof ornament.

Concealed pipe leak scan

Use a moisture meter or thermal camera along concealed routes before the walls are painted over.

Crack width classification

Under 0.3 mm is cosmetic; 0.3–1.0 mm needs investigation; over 1.0 mm is a critical snag (IS 456 / IS 4326). Measure with a crack gauge and photograph with scale.

Beam-column junction and honeycombing

Look for honeycombing, exposed reinforcement and inadequate cover at junctions.

Slab soffit deflection or sagging

Sight along the ceiling for visible sag; check for cracking at mid-span.

Cracks at lintel and sill level

Diagonal cracks from opening corners often indicate settlement rather than shrinkage.

Plaster hollowness by tapping

Tap wall surfaces and listen — a drummy sound means the plaster has debonded.

Floor flatness under a straightedge

Should be within ±2 mm under a 3 m straightedge (IS 14687 / NBC Part 6).

Carpet area measured against the agreement

Measure the carpet area room by room and compare against the figure in the sale agreement. RERA requires carpet area to be stated and delivered; a shortfall is recoverable, but only if it was measured at handover rather than argued about afterwards.

Tile hollow sound and lippage

Lippage within 1.5 mm; hollow area over 15% triggers re-laying (IS 14687). Tap-test room by room.

Wall moisture meter readings

Take readings on external and wet-area walls and record the values, not just an impression.

Ceiling water stains and efflorescence

Stains or white salt bloom mean water has been through the slab — check the unit above.

Seepage on walls shared with neighbours

Shared wet-area walls with the adjoining flat are a frequent seepage source.

External wall rain penetration

Check external plaster cracks, unsealed pipe penetrations and paint blistering.

Wet area pond test

Plug the drain, pond the floor 24 hours and check the ceiling below for damp. Ask for the builder's test record if ponding is not possible.

Sunk slab filling and waterproofing

Sunk portions should be filled with lightweight material and drained, not packed with debris.

Terrace waterproofing above the unit

For top-floor flats, inspect the terrace above for ponding, blistered membrane and blocked outlets.

Thermal imaging scan

Thermal scan reveals hidden moisture, concealed leaks and heat anomalies not visible to the eye.

Fire extinguisher on the floor

Present, within refill date and with a pressure gauge in the green band.

Sprinkler heads unobstructed

Heads present where required, undamaged and not blocked by false ceiling or joinery.

Smoke detector installed and tested

Detector fitted and responding to the test button — a missing detector is a critical snag.

Wet riser / hose reel on the landing

Hose reel present, charged and the cabinet not locked or obstructed.

Fire staircase and door closers

Fire doors self-close and latch; staircase pressurisation fan provision where required.

Exit signage and emergency lighting

Illuminated exit signs and emergency lights on the escape route, tested.

Refuge area accessible and clear

Refuge floor unlocked, unobstructed and not converted to storage.

Child safety at balconies and windows

No climbable horizontal members and no gap a child could pass through.

Gas leak detector provision

Where piped gas is supplied, check for a leak detector and its alarm.

Emergency contacts and assembly point

Displayed emergency numbers and a marked assembly point for the block.

Lift operation, levelling and licence

Lift levels flush at each floor, ARD works on power failure, and the licence certificate is current.

Lobby and corridor finishes

Flooring, wall finish and lighting in the common corridor serving the unit.

Common staircase treads and railing

Uniform riser heights, anti-skid nosing and a firm handrail.

Allotted parking slot

Measure the slot, check pillar clearance and confirm the number matches the allotment.

EV charging point provision

Charging point or conduit provision at the parking slot — increasingly expected and expensive to retrofit.

DG set backup and changeover

Generator capacity, per-flat backup load and automatic changeover timing.

STP operation and treated water reuse

STP running, no odour carrying to the block, and treated water used for landscaping/flushing.

Common water tank cleaning record

Ask for the last cleaning date and the maintenance schedule.

Security cabin, CCTV and access control

CCTV coverage of entries, working access control and a manned gate.

Amenities delivered as promised

Clubhouse, gym, pool and play area — compare against the brochure and agreement, and note anything incomplete.

Landscape, storm water drains and paving

Storm water drains clear and paving falling away from the building.

Garbage segregation and chute

Segregation room or chute provision and its distance from the unit.

External facade and expansion joints

Facade paint, visible cracks and sealed expansion joints on the elevation containing the unit.

Compound slope and drainage

Ensure water drains away from the plinth and no ponding near walls.

External wall cracks and paint finish

Check for plaster cracks, blistering paint and exposed patch work.

Gate operation and boundary wall finish

Verify gate alignment, latch, and compound wall plaster/paint condition.

External service points and meter area

Check meter box, external switches, and exposed conduits for weatherproofing.

Plot dimensions and corner markers

Measure the plot against the sale deed and confirm corner stones/markers are in place.

Plinth height above road level

Adequate plinth height matters for monsoon flooding — check against the surrounding road and drain level.

Driveway paving, slope and porch

Paving falling away from the house, no ponding at the porch and no settlement of pavers.

Garden, soil level and landscape drainage

Soil should sit below the damp-proof course; check landscape drains and any garden tap.

External plumbing and inspection chambers

Inspection chamber covers, trap condition and no sewage smell in the yard.

Compound gate, wicket and security

Main gate, wicket gate, locks and any automation or intercom at the gate.

External and security lighting

Weatherproof fittings, working sensors and coverage of the approach path.

Anti-termite treatment evidence

Ask for the treatment certificate and check skirting, door frames and wooden joinery for mud tubes.

Terrace slope, parapet and rain outlets

Confirm terrace slope towards outlets and check parapet junction waterproofing.

Terrace waterproofing membrane

Inspect for blistering, tears, lifted edges and loss of protective screed.

Terrace ponding test

Block outlets, pond the terrace and check ceilings below after 24 hours. Ask for the builder's test record if ponding is not possible.

Rainwater outlets and gratings

Outlets clear, gratings fitted and downpipes discharging away from the foundation.

Downpipe routing and fixing

Downpipes firmly clipped, joints sealed and discharging to a drain, not onto the wall face.

Rainwater harvesting system

BWSSB mandates RWH for sites 30×40 ft and larger — an OC should not have been issued without it. Confirm the recharge pit or storage tank is real and actually connected to the downpipes.

Overhead tank fixing, lid and access

Tank platform, secure lid, level indicator and a safe access ladder.

Solar water heater installed and plumbed

Required under BBMP bye-law 29 for occupancy — confirm it is connected to the hot water line, not just mounted.

Parapet coping and drip

Coping should slope inward with a drip groove to stop water tracking down the facade.

Terrace railing and edge safety

Railing height and fixing adequate for a usable terrace; no climbable horizontal members.

Slab penetrations sealed

Every pipe, conduit and antenna fixing through the roof slab must be properly sealed.

Door viewer, calling bell and intercom

Test the eye viewer sightline, calling bell and any video door phone.

Living room wall and paint finish

Look for uneven putty, roller marks, hairline cracks and stains.

Wall plumb and plaster flatness

Plumb within 1 in 250 over storey height (IS 1077); plaster within ±3 mm under a 3 m straightedge (IS 1542).

Flooring level, joints and skirting

Check for lipping, hollow tiles, grout gaps and skirting alignment.

Ceiling finish and corner junctions

Check for cracks at wall-ceiling junction, cornice finish and false ceiling gaps.

Switchboards, sockets and light points

Verify all points are live, plates aligned and TV/AC provisions in place.

AC point, sleeve and outdoor unit space

Sleeve falling outward, condensate drain route and a usable outdoor unit location.

Foyer flooring, skirting and storage niche

Foyer tile joints, skirting line and any shoe-niche provision.

Pooja room provision and finish

Where provided: flooring, ventilation, light point and any cabinetry finish.

Dining wash basin, tap and drain

Where provided: basin fixing, tap operation and no drip at the trap.

Main door — frame: material, plumb and finish

Jamb plumb within ±2 mm over its height (IS 4021); frame material should match specification.

Main door — frame free of cracks, open joints and damage

Check the frame face for cracks and the head-to-jamb joints for gaps or steps. No chipping, dents or polish misses on any exposed face of the frame, beading or architrave.

Main door — no gap between frame, beading and wall

Run a finger along where the frame, beading and architrave meet the wall — an open line here means the frame was fixed before the plaster was made good, and it will only widen.

Main door — no gap between frame and finished floor

The frame legs must land on the finished floor. A gap at the base means a short frame — it rots or rusts from the bottom and can never be sealed properly.

Main door — shutter perimeter gap

Perimeter gap 1–3 mm and sill gap 6–10 mm (IS 4021). Anything wider whistles and lets dust in.

Main door — shutter free from chips, scratches and cracks

Both faces and all four edges under raking light — including the top edge, which is almost never checked and is where damage and unsealed surfaces hide.

Main door — hinge screws complete and rust-free

Every screw hole filled with the correct screw driven fully home — a hinge running on two of three screws will drop the door within a year. Check for rust bloom on hinges and screw heads.

Main door — lock, handle, tower bolt and strike plate

Strike plate screwed flush with the latch engaging fully; key turning without lifting the shutter; tower bolts sliding into their receivers; a stopper on every shutter that catches the door before the handle hits the wall.

Main door — operates easily and noiselessly

Swing the door through its full arc — no rubbing on the floor or frame, no creak, no self-closing drift, and the shutter stays where you leave it.

Main door — shutter warping, swelling or delamination

Sight along the shutter for bow; check the bottom edge for swelling and that the edges are sealed.

Living/dining window — frame external sealant continuity

Unbroken sealant bead where the frame meets the external wall. A gap here is the single commonest path for monsoon water into a bedroom wall.

Living/dining window — frame corner joints free of gaps

Mitred corners of the outer frame should be closed and level — an open corner joint leaks and cannot be sealed from inside.

Living/dining window — rollers, track and locking

Shutters should slide with one finger and stop square. Check the track for debris, damaged rollers and drain (weep) holes left blocked or unformed.

Living/dining window — stopper and hook lock on every shutter

Every sliding shutter needs its stopper and hook lock fitted — without them the shutter can be lifted out of the track from outside.

Living/dining window — glass, beading and glazing gasket

Glass free of breakage, scratches and cement or paint splash; beading fixed square; rubber glazing gasket seated all round rather than stretched and short at a corner.

Living/dining window — mosquito mesh shutters fitted and undamaged

Mesh shutter present for every openable pane, running in its own track, with no tears or gaps at the corners. Most often found simply not provided.

Living/dining window — external sill slope and drip

Sill must fall away from the building with a drip groove underneath, or rain tracks back along the underside and into the wall.

Living/dining window — rain water ingress test

Run water over the closed window and check the inside face, the sill and the wall below for ingress.

Counter level and sink slope

Counter should be level; sink area should not retain water.

Counter slab joints, edge polish and overhang

Check granite/quartz joint alignment, nosing polish and overhang against specification.

Cabinet shutters, hinges and internals

Check gaps, alignment, soft-close action and internal shelf finish.

Sink, trap and water inlet points

Run water and check for leaks at trap, angle valve and inlet joints.

Dado tiles and sealant finish

Check tile joint uniformity, cut edges and silicone at counter junction.

Kitchen floor tile condition and hollowness

Tap every tile, especially along the run in front of the counter and around the drain. Record hollow tiles by row and column. Check for cracked, chipped and uneven (lipped) tiles at the same time.

Gas pipeline / PNG-LPG point safety

Check pipeline routing clearance from electrical wiring, leak-test the joint, and confirm shutoff valve access.

Chimney duct, exhaust outlet and hob cutout

Duct must route to open air, not terminate blind in a shaft; hob cutout per specification.

Kitchen power points and RCD protection

Appliance sockets at correct height, adequate count and RCD/RCCB protected.

Utility area plumbing and electrical points

Check washing machine inlet/drain, socket earthing and floor slope.

Utility floor slope to drain

Wet-area fall between 1:80 and 1:50 (12.5–20 mm per metre) per NBC Part 9 — pour water and watch it clear.

LPG cylinder space and ventilation

Ventilated cylinder space at low level with the pipeline entry sealed.

Fittings brand/model matches builder specification

Verify sink, hob/chimney provision, and hardware match the builder's specification sheet.

Utility door — no gap between frame, beading and wall

Run a finger along where the frame, beading and architrave meet the wall — an open line here means the frame was fixed before the plaster was made good, and it will only widen.

Utility door — shutter free from chips, scratches and cracks

Both faces and all four edges under raking light — including the top edge, which is almost never checked and is where damage and unsealed surfaces hide.

Utility door — lock, handle, tower bolt and strike plate

Strike plate screwed flush with the latch engaging fully; key turning without lifting the shutter; tower bolts sliding into their receivers; a stopper on every shutter that catches the door before the handle hits the wall.

Kitchen window — frame external sealant continuity

Unbroken sealant bead where the frame meets the external wall. A gap here is the single commonest path for monsoon water into a bedroom wall.

Kitchen window — frame corner joints free of gaps

Mitred corners of the outer frame should be closed and level — an open corner joint leaks and cannot be sealed from inside.

Kitchen window — rollers, track and locking

Shutters should slide with one finger and stop square. Check the track for debris, damaged rollers and drain (weep) holes left blocked or unformed.

Kitchen window — glass, beading and glazing gasket

Glass free of breakage, scratches and cement or paint splash; beading fixed square; rubber glazing gasket seated all round rather than stretched and short at a corner.

Kitchen window — mosquito mesh shutters fitted and undamaged

Mesh shutter present for every openable pane, running in its own track, with no tears or gaps at the corners. Most often found simply not provided.

Kitchen window — external sill slope and drip

Sill must fall away from the building with a drip groove underneath, or rain tracks back along the underside and into the wall.

Wall and ceiling finish

Check paint uniformity, cracks and ceiling junction lines.

Flooring and skirting finish

Check tile/wood joints, level differences and skirting gaps.

Wardrobe shutters and internals

Check alignment, hinge action, shelves and hanging rod fixing.

Power, AC and data points

Verify sockets, AC point location and TV/data provisions.

AC sleeve, drain slope and outdoor space

Sleeve falling outward with a clear condensate route and outdoor unit ledge.

Window grill / safety mesh

Grill fixing, rust protection and gaps narrow enough to be child-safe.

Ceiling and false ceiling edges

Ceiling flatness, cornice line and false ceiling perimeter gaps.

Balcony door, threshold and water stop

Door operation, lock and a raised threshold or drain to stop rain ingress.

Natural light and cross ventilation

Window area and openable portion adequate for the room size.

Bedroom door — frame: material, plumb and finish

Jamb plumb within ±2 mm over its height (IS 4021); frame material should match specification.

Bedroom door — frame free of cracks, open joints and damage

Check the frame face for cracks and the head-to-jamb joints for gaps or steps. No chipping, dents or polish misses on any exposed face of the frame, beading or architrave.

Bedroom door — no gap between frame, beading and wall

Run a finger along where the frame, beading and architrave meet the wall — an open line here means the frame was fixed before the plaster was made good, and it will only widen.

Bedroom door — no gap between frame and finished floor

The frame legs must land on the finished floor. A gap at the base means a short frame — it rots or rusts from the bottom and can never be sealed properly.

Bedroom door — shutter perimeter gap

Perimeter gap 1–3 mm and sill gap 6–10 mm (IS 4021). Anything wider whistles and lets dust in.

Bedroom door — shutter free from chips, scratches and cracks

Both faces and all four edges under raking light — including the top edge, which is almost never checked and is where damage and unsealed surfaces hide.

Bedroom door — hinge screws complete and rust-free

Every screw hole filled with the correct screw driven fully home — a hinge running on two of three screws will drop the door within a year. Check for rust bloom on hinges and screw heads.

Bedroom door — lock, handle, tower bolt and strike plate

Strike plate screwed flush with the latch engaging fully; key turning without lifting the shutter; tower bolts sliding into their receivers; a stopper on every shutter that catches the door before the handle hits the wall.

Bedroom door — operates easily and noiselessly

Swing the door through its full arc — no rubbing on the floor or frame, no creak, no self-closing drift, and the shutter stays where you leave it.

Bedroom door — shutter warping, swelling or delamination

Sight along the shutter for bow; check the bottom edge for swelling and that the edges are sealed.

Bedroom window — frame external sealant continuity

Unbroken sealant bead where the frame meets the external wall. A gap here is the single commonest path for monsoon water into a bedroom wall.

Bedroom window — frame corner joints free of gaps

Mitred corners of the outer frame should be closed and level — an open corner joint leaks and cannot be sealed from inside.

Bedroom window — rollers, track and locking

Shutters should slide with one finger and stop square. Check the track for debris, damaged rollers and drain (weep) holes left blocked or unformed.

Bedroom window — stopper and hook lock on every shutter

Every sliding shutter needs its stopper and hook lock fitted — without them the shutter can be lifted out of the track from outside.

Bedroom window — glass, beading and glazing gasket

Glass free of breakage, scratches and cement or paint splash; beading fixed square; rubber glazing gasket seated all round rather than stretched and short at a corner.

Bedroom window — mosquito mesh shutters fitted and undamaged

Mesh shutter present for every openable pane, running in its own track, with no tears or gaps at the corners. Most often found simply not provided.

Bedroom window — external sill slope and drip

Sill must fall away from the building with a drip groove underneath, or rain tracks back along the underside and into the wall.

Bedroom window — rain water ingress test

Run water over the closed window and check the inside face, the sill and the wall below for ingress.

Floor slope and drainage

Wet-area fall should be 1:80 to 1:50 (12.5–20 mm per metre) per NBC Part 9. Pour water — it must clear with no ponding.

Floor trap, grating and drainage speed

Grating seated flush; a gully trap should clear standing water in under 10 seconds (NBC Part 9).

Wall tile alignment and grout

Check tile level, corner cuts, grout finish and hollow tiles.

Tile lippage and hollow sound

Lippage within 1.5 mm for ceramic/vitrified; hollow area over 15% triggers re-laying (IS 14687).

Taps, mixers and shower leaks

Run all outlets and check for drips at spindle and wall joints.

CP fittings brand/model match specification

Compare taps, shower and accessories against the specification annexure.

Health faucet, angle valve and fixing

Faucet flow, no drip at the angle valve and a firm wall hook.

WC fixing, seat and flush

Check base sealing, seat fitment, dual flush and cistern refill.

Wash basin, counter, waste and trap

Basin fixing, counter support, pop-up waste and bottle trap free of leaks.

Sanitaryware free from chips, cracks and stains

Inspect the WC pan, cistern, seat and basin under raking light — including the rim underside and the hidden face against the wall, where transit chips are usually left.

Under-counter basin support and fixing

An under-counter or counter-top basin must sit on brackets or a bonded support, not on silicone alone. Press down on the rim — any movement means it will crack the counter joint later.

Bottle trap, angle cock and connection hoses

A proper bottle trap (not a bare flexible pipe pushed into the floor), an angle cock on each inlet and braided hoses without kinks or over-tightened collars.

Shower zone slope, ledge and partition

Shower area draining independently; glass partition fixing and toughened glass marking.

Exhaust fan and ventilation

Check exhaust operation, duct termination and window/vent provision.

False ceiling: channel fixing, level and access

Grid channels fixed at the right centres and properly anchored — a bathroom false ceiling carries the exhaust duct and sags first at the joints. Check the perimeter line, panel level, and that an access panel exists for the duct and concealed valves above it.

Geyser point, dedicated MCB and clearance

Geyser on its own MCB with safe clearance from the shower zone.

Water pressure and flow at all outlets

Open several outlets together and check flow does not collapse — tests supply sizing. Measure the pressure at the outlet and record the figure: it should read between 1.5 and 5 kg/cm². Below 1.5 the geyser and shower will not perform properly; above 5 the pressure itself shortens the life of cartridges, seals and flexible hoses.

Concealed plumbing access panel

Confirm an access panel or shaft door exists for concealed valves and future repairs.

Seepage or dampness signs

Check adjacent walls and ceiling below for damp patches or salt deposits.

Bathroom door — no gap between frame, beading and wall

An open line where the frame meets the wall is a water path in a wet room, not just a finish defect.

Bathroom door — shutter material suited to a wet area

Bottom edge sealed and the shutter material rated for a bathroom. An unsealed flush door swells from the bottom within one monsoon.

Bathroom door — shutter free from chips, swelling and delamination

Check the bottom 150 mm of both faces and the bottom edge especially — that is where bathroom doors fail first.

Bathroom door — threshold water stop and bottom clearance

A raised threshold or water stop that actually holds water in, with enough clearance under the shutter for the exhaust fan to draw air.

Bathroom door — privacy lock releases from outside

The lock must hold from inside and be releasable from outside in an emergency — a bathroom door that cannot be opened from outside is a safety defect.

Dado free from hollowness

Tap every dado tile in the kitchen, bathrooms and utility with a coin or tap rod. A drummy sound means the tile never bonded — it will crack or fall once a shelf or fixture is drilled into it. Over 15% hollow area calls for re-laying (IS 14687).

Dado free from undulation

Hold a straightedge across the dado horizontally and vertically. Beyond about 3 mm deviation over 2 m the course is out of plane, and it shows badly under wall lighting.

Dado joints filled and uniform

Joints of even width, fully filled to the tile face, with no gaps at internal corners, cut tiles or around cutouts for taps and switches.

No visible cracks on dado tiles

Look for hairline and through cracks, especially over concealed plumbing chases and at fixture cutouts where the tile was drilled.

Floor-to-dado junction grouted

The joint where the dado meets the floor tile must be fully grouted or siliconed. An open joint at this line feeds water straight into the sunk slab and shows up later as a ceiling stain below.

Dado laid without shade variation

View the full elevation from an angle with the lights on. Tiles from different batches show as shade bands — a defect the builder must fix from the same batch, not touch up.

No chipping, scratches or damage on dado

Check chipped edges at cut tiles and cutouts, scratched glaze from site tools, and damaged corner beading or edge trims.

Flooring laid without shade variation

Sight down the floor towards the light. Check shade banding between batches and that any directional pattern (the arrow on the tile back) was laid consistently.

No chipping, cracks or scratches on flooring

Corner chips, scratch marks from site traffic and hairline cracks — most common at door thresholds and where heavy material was dragged.

Floor tile joints filled with matching grout

Joint width uniform, filled flush, and the grout shade matching the approved sample across the whole floor — patch grouting in a second shade is a rejectable finish.

No cracks, chip-off or damage on skirting

Run along the skirting line looking for chipped top edges, cracked pieces and damage at door jambs and corners.

Skirting joints and floor junction filled

Skirting-to-skirting joints filled, corners mitred cleanly, and the skirting-to-floor line grouted in a matching shade with no open gap collecting dirt.

DB labelling and MCB function

Verify labelled circuits, MCB ratings and switching action.

Circuit diagram provided at the DB

A printed circuit chart inside or beside the distribution board showing which MCB feeds which circuit. Without it, every future fault means switching breakers off one at a time to find the right one.

Voltage test at the distribution board

Measure the incoming line-to-neutral voltage at the DB and write the reading down. It must sit between 200 V and 260 V. Outside that band the supply itself is at fault rather than the wiring — motors, compressors and electronics fail early on it — and the recorded reading is what makes the case to BESCOM or the builder.

MCB ratings and circuit separation

Ratings must suit the cable and load; AC, geyser, pump and kitchen deserve dedicated circuits.

Earthing and RCD protection

Confirm earth pit connection, continuity at sockets and RCD trip test.

Earth resistance measurement

Should read under 5 ohms for a single occupancy (IS 3043). Record the measured value and the earth pit location.

Line-neutral polarity at sockets

Use a socket tester on every point — line-neutral reversal is common and dangerous.

Exposed wiring and junction boxes

Look for open joints, unsecured conduits and uncovered junction boxes.

Socket and switch count per room

Count points room by room against specification; shortfalls are hard to fix after possession.

Every switch, regulator and dimmer

Operate each one — listen for sparking and feel for loose plates.

Switch and cover plates fixed properly

Every plate flush to the wall with both screws present and tight. A plate that rocks or stands proud usually means a back box set too deep or at an angle.

Switch plates aligned horizontally

Spirit level across each plate, then check that plates on the same wall sit at the same height. Skewed plates are the most visible finishing defect in a handover and the hardest to argue away.

Fan regulator fitted on the switch plate

Regulator module present in the plate rather than a blank, speeds changing across the full range, and no humming from the fan at the lowest setting.

Gaps and mould around the DB and switch boxes

The plaster gap around the DB and each back box must be filled and painted. Open gaps behind plates leave the wall cavity exposed — check for damp or mould in that gap in bathrooms and external walls.

Dummy/blank plates on unused boxes

Every unused back box and spare module closed with a blank plate. An open box with live conductors behind it is a safety defect, not a cosmetic one.

Surge protection device at the DB

Check whether an SPD is fitted — worth flagging for Bengaluru's monsoon switching surges.

Inverter/UPS provision and backup circuit

Backup circuit provision, battery location ventilation and which points are backed up.

BESCOM meter and sanctioned load

Meter in the buyer's name, sanctioned load adequate for the house, and reading noted at handover.

Staircase treads, risers and railing

Check uniform riser height, anti-skid nosing and firm railing fixing.

Staircase headroom and lighting

Adequate headroom at every flight and a two-way switched light for the stair.

Fire safety and escape access

Confirm extinguisher provision, smoke detector and unobstructed exit path.

Smoke detector installed and tested

Detector fitted and responding to the test button — a missing detector is a critical snag.

Gas leak detector provision

Where piped gas is supplied, check for a leak detector and its alarm.

Plumbing pressure test evidence

Lines should hold 1.5× operating pressure for 24 hours with no measurable drop (NBC Part 9). Ask for the test record.

Water source: BWSSB and borewell

Confirm BWSSB connection status, borewell depth and yield, and which is primary.

Water quality: TDS, hardness and odour

Bengaluru borewell water is often hard — record TDS and note any smell or colour.

Underground sump capacity and cover

Sump capacity, cleanliness, sealed cover and no ingress of surface water.

Pump operation and controls

Sump-to-overhead pump, float/auto controls, dry-run protection and noise.

Main and zone shutoff valves

Every wet area should have an accessible isolating valve that actually closes.

Hot water line insulation and routing

Insulated hot lines with correct left/right orientation at each mixer.

Drainage flow and venting

No standing water in horizontal runs (NBC Part 9); gurgling signals poor venting.

Sewage connection or septic tank

Confirm connection to the BWSSB main, or septic tank size, soak pit and desludging access.

Water meter installed and read

Meter installed for the property and the reading recorded at handover.

Concealed pipe leak scan

Use a moisture meter or thermal camera along concealed routes before walls are painted over.

Crack width classification

Under 0.3 mm is cosmetic; 0.3–1.0 mm needs investigation; over 1.0 mm is a critical snag (IS 456 / IS 4326). Measure with a crack gauge and photograph with scale.

Beam-column junction and honeycombing

Look for honeycombing, exposed reinforcement and inadequate cover at junctions.

Slab soffit deflection or sagging

Sight along the ceiling for visible sag; check for cracking at mid-span.

Cracks at lintel and sill level

Diagonal cracks from opening corners often indicate settlement rather than shrinkage.

Plinth level and damp-proof course

DPC continuous at plinth; rising damp shows as a horizontal tide mark on ground-floor walls.

Plaster hollowness by tapping

Tap wall surfaces and listen — a drummy sound means the plaster has debonded.

Floor flatness under a straightedge

Should be within ±2 mm under a 3 m straightedge (IS 14687 / NBC Part 6).

Carpet area measured against the agreement

Measure the carpet area room by room and compare against the figure in the sale agreement. RERA requires carpet area to be stated and delivered; a shortfall is recoverable, but only if it was measured at handover rather than argued about afterwards.

Wall moisture meter readings

Take readings on external and wet-area walls and record values, not just an impression.

Ceiling stains and efflorescence

Stains or white salt bloom mean water has passed through the slab — trace the source above.

External wall rain penetration

Check external plaster cracks, unsealed pipe penetrations and paint blistering.

Wet area pond test

Plug the drain, pond the floor 24 hours and check the ceiling below for damp.

Sunk slab filling and waterproofing

Sunk portions should be filled with lightweight material and drained, not packed with debris.

Thermal imaging scan

Thermal scan reveals hidden moisture, concealed leaks and heat anomalies not visible to the eye.